With a crawl space you use the same concept as the other methods but you are suctioning air beneath heavy duty plastic, if it's a dirt/gravel base, the plastic is caulked around the perimeter up onto the wall at a minimum of 12". Making sure all the seams are overlapped and sealed using an appropriate caulk. If you have multiple crawl spaces then each one is treated as its own. If any asbestos or hazardous materials are present it is up to the homeowner to have it professionally removed before installation.
This is the most effective/common method. First you start off by conducting communication tests to see if you have sufficient air flow beneath the concrete slab. After all diagnostics are performed you can determine what size fan you need, if multiple suction points are needed, and placement of venting. Piping is installed in the least obstrusive way possible.
Hours of operation:
Mon-Fri. 7:00 am- 5:00 pm
Saturday 7:00 am- 2:00pm
Cost of System
A system can cost as little as $750 and rarely exceeds $1,200. It all depends on the soil beneath the house and the layout of the home. We try to hide the pipes in the interior of the home and fan in the attic, for a much more professional look and the prevention of system freezing up in the winter..
We serve all of southeastern and south central Wisconsin.
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When applying radon mitigation techniques to new homes, installing a passive system is the way to go. Requiring the mitigation contractor to make multiple trips during the building process to ensure the systems effectiveness. Venting can appropriately be hidden in the interior walls or plumbing chases. A passive system performs best with clean/coarse aggregate beneath the home. Stack effect will cause underlying air to rise through the venting and is then vented out through the roof into the atmosphere. Typically a passive system will only reduce radon levels by up to fifty percent. After the home is complete a test should then be conducted. If levels are high, a fan can easily be added to maximize radon reduction.
This isanother very effective method. If you have drain tile running to the sump this is a good way to vacuum the air out especially if the drain tile is around the perimeter. A specialized sump lid is retro fitted to allow the mitigation pipe to protrude through the top of it. Allowing suction to channel air through the drain tile and out through the discharge pipe. Drain tile can also be tapped into on the exterior of foundation/footing.